How the ‘skinification’ of fragrance is giving rise to formulation innovation

Driving this push for innovation are several factors: the rise of ‘skinification,’ a desire to know and understand the ingredients of products such as fragrance — driven, in part, by the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 — and Gen Z’s penchant for choosing fragrances based on their mood rather than one signature scent. 

The draw of skincare-based ingredients goes beyond makeup and haircare 

While clean fragrances, much like clean beauty, have enjoyed increased popularity as clean trends have persisted in recent years, there are still challenges for fragrance makers around getting the formula right — especially regarding water-based products. 

Water-based fragrances are ideal for people with sensitive skin. However, the fact that water and oil don’t mix means formulations often have longevity issues and feel tacky when applied. 

One example of innovation in this space addresses these factors. In 2023, Clean Reserve partnered with Takasago to create a proprietary solution of microemulsion fragrance oil — carefully blended with water and naturally occurring liquid solvents for a new line of clean fragrances — Clean Reserve H2Eau. 

While this fragrance line targets those with sensitive skin, it’s also a welcome alternative for all fragrance enthusiasts. For one thing, it’s alcohol-free. 

Tara Kearns, senior director of fragrance and product development at Clean Beauty Collective, explains that alcohol, often present in traditional fine fragrances, isn’t cause for great concern among fragrance users, “the daily use of many products can cause a change in the sensitivity of the skin. Everyone’s skin is different and tolerates products differently based on age, family medical history, medications, etc. That’s why it’s important to educate yourself on what you’re putting on your skin every day. We publish our extensive ‘no-to list’ on our website and are working toward even more transparency around ‘catch-all ingredients,’ like ‘fragrance.’ When using traditional fine fragrances, we recommend spritzing them on your clothes.” 

Ingredient transparency is driving even more demand for clean fragrance

As MoCRA takes effect, fragrance buyers will get to see, for the first time, what ingredients are in their favorite formulations. That hasn’t always been the case.

For example, many with sensitive skin avoid skincare products with added “fragrance” on the label because “fragrance” can mean hundreds or thousands of different chemicals. A new level of transparency will open more doors for clean fragrances that are already successfully using natural ingredients and safe synthetics. Demand for “clean” is likely to grow as those doors open. 

In preparation for FDA regulations, Clean Beauty Collective is working closely with experienced regulatory and law partners to meet the standards for MoCRA. 

“Our consumer’s safety is always a priority when developing products, and we have a very strict ‘no-to’ ingredient list,” Kearns said. “We maintain all safety and data records needed for substantiation. In addition, any allergens in the products are listed on the ingredient list, and in 2024, we plan on having much more transparency with our products beyond the FDA’s allergen requirements.” 

Taking transparency a step further, backing from a dermatologist and skin cancer surgeon is another step brands are taking to promote the safety and efficacy of their products, especially for those who may not have clean fragrances top-of-mind. 

“We’ve also partnered with Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, to lend her credibility and authority to the Clean Reserve H2Eau fragrance benefits,” said Gregory Black, Chief Executive Officer at Clean Beauty Collective, talking about Clean Reserve H2Eau Hydro-Tec technology.

As consumers seek sustainable brands, sourcing and manufacturing transparency will go a long way

As part of its commitment to transparency, Clean Beauty Collective has always included any allergens in its products on its ingredient lists. In 2024, the brand plans to have more transparency beyond the FDA’s allergen requirements. The Clean Reserve line is also positioned as “farm-to-fragrance” for using sustainably sourced ingredients that give back to farmers and their communities.

To further its commitment to sustainability, the brand partnered with EARTHDAY.ORG for the fifth year to educate consumers on various joint initiatives. This year’s focus is on protecting the ocean. The pair are raising awareness and educating audiences on important ocean-related facts, which ties into the Clean Reserve H2Eau line, inspired by oceans worldwide. 

Gen Z trends make the case for brands to add more perfumes to the mix

Years ago, the trend in the fragrance world was for everyone to find a signature scent they could wear daily. 

However, Gen Z has introduced a new trend: changing scents based on outfits, moods and more. In addition to the rise of scent-based subscription services — such as Scentbird, allowing consumers to try a new fragrance each month — fragrance buyers are exploring new scents at unprecedented rates.

“We continue to focus on all generations of consumers, although there is no doubt that Gen Z’s buying power is growing, and all beauty brands are putting marketing behind capturing that audience,” Black said.” We employ an omnichannel digital marketing strategy, including a partnership with pro-surfer Tia Blanco, who embodies the ethos of Clean Reserve H2Eau.” 

Gen Z is also driving the clean trend, too. A behavioral report from YPulse found that clean beauty is the number one trend Gen Z and millennial females are interested in trying. Furthermore, 32% of 13–39-year-olds are interested in clean beauty products, and 45% of females within that age bracket are. 

This trend, combined with the skincare-infused everything trend and the emergence of ingredient labels on fragrances for the first time, is pushing shoppers to be more conscious about what they’re buying and putting on their skin. The skinification of fragrance will be a much bigger industry trend in 2024 as further innovations emerge and consumers demand more from brands. 

Sponsored by Clean Beauty Collective