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The Glossy Fashion Podcast

Co-founder Brian Murphy on growing Loeffler Randall to an $80 million business by 2025

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By Jill Manoff
Jan 17, 2024

This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →

Subscribe: Apple Podcasts • Spotify

Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, footwear brand Loeffler Randall has experienced its fair share of industry highs and lows. Of course, a recent low was the height of the pandemic in early 2020. But since that time, when it faced “scarring” challenges, the brand has been in growth mode, co-founder Brian Murphy said on the Glossy Podcast. For example, it has opened its first two stores, entered new product categories and expanded its headquarters to accommodate a growing team. It’s also tripled the size of the business. 

On the podcast episode, Murphy breaks down Loeffler Randall’s approach to physical retail, which has resulted in its 750-square-foot NYC store doing $1.3 million in annual sales. He also talks through the company’s international ambitions and its strategy for becoming an $80-million, 100-employee company within the next 18 months. Excerpts from the conversation, below, have been lightly edited for clarity. 

Surviving the pandemic

“This was an independently financed, mom-and-pop business financed the traditional way — through SBA loans at the beginning and then bank-financed based on a blend of receivables and inventory. … Being bank-financed [involves] strict covenants and monthly reporting to the bank. And I always loved that because I was like, ‘Hey, you know what? There’s a lot of eyeballs on the business. There’s a lot of integrity in the numbers; everything has to be perfect. And this is the way a real business is run — and I don’t have to worry about pleasing some VC capital that’s got 52 bets spread across consumer [businesses].’ That setup had always worked for us. … But we’re kind of an events-driven business; we are a specialty product; we are worn heavily at things like engagement parties, weddings, bachelorette parties, proms, black tie events, evenings out, wear to work, … And it wasn’t product that performed particularly well during Covid. That was a drastic athleisure moment. So that was tough for this business, along with the wholesale environment — that was also very difficult. We had already had a major wholesale partner, Barney’s, declare chapter 11 in Q4 2019. … We had all this great product. A lot of this product that [eventually] drove our growth in 2021, 2022 and 2023 was in development, was being marketed, and was for sale. But 2020 was slow.  … And the bank I was in wasn’t super committed to the American market and also wasn’t committed to the small- and medium-sized business market. They had their own issues. And so, for us, it was a very difficult six months with them. … It was really scarring. I think they knew that we were honest and that we were accountable, and that we were transparent. … But I feel like they wanted to close this business and they wanted to close that loan.” 

Thoughtful retail expansion

“At the end of 2020, with [new] financial partners, we were like, ‘We’ll have four stores open by 2024.’ But I have two stores open now, and I don’t have a third lease. So, it’s slower [than expected]. When I do retail, it’s a big part of my job — just thinking [about] and finding where it’s going to be. There’s not much [real estate] available. But I think about people like Tory Burch, and — God bless — she’s operating, like, 300 stores. … Doing our second store in Charleston was like a labor of love. Our design team is omnichannel: They work in marketing, they work on the products, … they work in every medium. …  So they’re designing, and they’re also thinking about how it’s going to be visualized. … They’re styling the shoot, they’re going on the shoot, they’re picking the furnishings for the store, they’re looking at the architect’s drawings — it is fully integrated. … I usually pick the [store] site, though it’s collaborative. … The Charleston [store] was hard. It was a new building, so there were a lot of zoning and logistical [challenges]. But I’ve been working in creative or media or advertising or graphic design — I came here as a graphic designer in the late ‘90s — and I was like, ‘This is the best creative project I may have ever been involved in.'”

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Joyful is the new minimal 

“We’re in this weird in-between era [of retail], right? You have a lot of people in retail with experience, but they’re from a Gap or a Banana Republic, and those stores were huge — 6,000 square feet — and stacked high with product. The old Mickey Drexler thing of, ‘Stack ’em high, let ’em fly,’ it just doesn’t work [today]. People don’t want to go into those stores and feel like there’s too much product. … And I still see a lot of brands using this model, where it’s like, ‘We’ve got all this stuff. Come by.’ And I’m just like, ‘I’m overwhelmed.’ That’s like the world I grew up in; I’m an ’80s mall kid. And I’ve been to every version of Victoria’s Secret and Brooks Brothers and J.Crew that’s ever been created, by every creative director. … So then we flipped. We had a new era of largely DTC businesses, funded by VC, that went heavy into retail — this is in the last 5-7 years. And a lot of their stores are super clinical, a lot of them feel distant from the customer, and a lot of them look the same. … Some of them are truly bad retailers, and they shouldn’t be doing it. They’re too hard and too bare, and I don’t get it. … But we want to create a joyous connection to the business [in our stores], and we want to share the creative stuff we’re doing. … I see a lot of this in food and bev, too. You see a real joy returning to the small, boutique, high-touch food and beverage businesses.”

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