Launching denim is considerably risky for brands. For one, its return rates are among the highest of any fashion category. But at the same time, it can facilitate great brand loyalty. Once customers find a denim style they like, they tend to return to the same brand to buy their next pair.
For its part, Kansas-based apparel brand Mersea launched denim this month. It started with four travel-focused denim styles for $188 each, with new styles set to launch in 2024. Ten years ago, Mersea launched with a focus on wrap-style layers made for travel, and it introduced a broader apparel line last year. In 2022, the company made $15 million in revenue, with 60% of sales made through its direct-to-consumer e-commerce site and 40% through wholesale. It distributes through more than 1,000 doors across the U.S., including Anthropologie and Lands’ End. The brand has also focused on smaller retailers, which offer more learnings through greater access to workers and customer feedback. Mersea has always been bootstrapped and profitable.
Mersea, which caters to travelers ages 30-50, is not the only brand to launch travel-focused denim styles. In 2022, Frame launched its Jetset denim style which is free of buttons and zips. Mersea’s styles, meanwhile, feature four-way stretch and a side zip at the waist instead of a traditional front button.
As it’s a durable fabric, denim is a popular choice for consumers during a down economy, as many people are looking for clothes that will last and can be worn for various occasions. In 2022, the global denim market was valued at $27.1 billion, and it’s expected to grow to over $35 billion by 2027, according to industry analytics company Technavio. The rise of sustainable denim and vintage styles is accelerating the growth.
With the denim launch, Mersea aims to grow its customer loyalty. According to a May 2023 survey by Lifestyle Monitor, which tracks customer data on cotton products, customers wear denim more than any other pants, even leggings. Thirty-four percent of respondents chose denim as their most-worn pants, and 82% said they plan to purchase more denim in the next year.
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“Denim became more important to us when we started fully leaning into apparel,” said Lina Dickinson, co-founder of Mersea. “We asked our customers on Instagram and in stores what they have in their closet that they turn to all the time, and the answer was denim.”
Denim is often returned due to fit issues, as fits vary between brands. Mastering fit and a flattering denim design are key for customer retention and trust-building. Mersea hired a former executive from Frame to advise the company on how to design, market and manufacture its first denim collection. Eleven-year-old Frame is an influential modern denim brand, with $170 million in sales in 2022, and a roster of celebrity and model fans. For Mersea’s part, it developed its denim fits by testing styles on a variety of models over the course of six months. Mersea’s denim is produced in Turkey through a manufacturer focused on maintaining a low environmental footprint.
“When you start getting into denim, you’ve got to know what you’re doing,” said Dickinson. “We launched with simple pieces because our customer wants comfort, functionality and reliability from us.” The brand is marketing the launch by featuring inspiring female friends of the brand in an OOH and online campaign, which will also roll out on the brand’s Instagram this month.
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Dickinson added, “You also need to listen to your customer and be prepared to make some mistakes, and learn from them.”
In spring 2024, Mersea will introduce a program for its retail partners centered on lowering the risk of buying into the brand’s unknown and untested denim category. The program will allow them to return any portion of their denim order within 60 days. “At the same time, that will give us the feedback we want,” said Dickinson. “That is something you can’t do with the Macy’s and the Nordstroms of the world.”
