In this week’s briefing, a look at the growing repair space in footwear and the opportunity for customer loyalty through in-store repairs. Scroll down to use Glossy+ Comments, giving the Glossy+ community the opportunity to join discussions around industry topics.
Since the launch of French footwear brand Veja’s “Clean, Repair, Collect” program in 2020, the brand has repaired 20,000 sneakers and shoes from its own and other brands. After the initial success of the repair service in its store in Bordeaux, France, Veja rolled out repair stores in Galeries Lafayette, Paris, as well as in Berlin and Madrid. Repairs range from €10-€100 for a range of services.
In February, Veja opened its first standalone repair shop, called the “General Store,” in Paris. The store’s cobblers have so far repaired 140 Veja shoes, bringing in €1,400-€14,000 at €10-€100 a pop. In total, it’s repaired more than 200 shoes and 35 pieces of clothing — 30% of shoes coming in for repair come from other brands. The repairs service has a month-long waiting list.
“Every time we launch a repair [location], it’s a big success,” said Sébastien Kopp, co-founder of Veja. “It’s not a business decision — it’s more of a service to the clients. But it creates a lot of positive impact. Today, 70% of the shoes [that are brought in] are by Veja because people don’t know they can bring other brands to our cobbler shops.”
Cobbler numbers have dwindled globally, especially in Europe and the U.S., according to Kopp. He said brands have a responsibility to bring them back to extend product lifecycles. This is especially true considering the rise of regulations in the E.U. and the U.S. ensuring brands make more durable products. Brands beyond the footwear category have also been introducing repairs and customization. Levi’s has several Tailor Shops worldwide, and Patagonia repairs 17,000 products a year with its Worn Wear Truck and stores. Nudie Jeans, Ganni and Aligne also offer repair services.
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Over the next year, Veja will launch dedicated repair stores in bigger markets globally. Veja has 500 employees and sold 12 million pairs of shoes in 2022, with revenue of €260 million ($283 million).
According to Kopp, the repair stores feed into the brand’s product development, creating a permanent feedback loop with its development team. “We learn a lot about the weaknesses of our shoes, and we can correct [those weaknesses], updating way we design them and making them more sustainable and easier to repair.” The brand recycles its footwear soles, using the materials for shoe repairs.
The cobblers initially held meetings with the brand’s creative studio once a month. The brand now has 15-20 cobblers and holds those meetings every two months. Cobblers give insights into their impression of the shoe design and durability. said Kopp.
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The global shoe repair market was expected to be worth $1.3 billion in 2023, according to a report by market research company Fact.MR. The market is predicted to grow at a CAGR of 2.4% over the next 10 years, achieving a value of $ 1.7 billion by the end of 2033.
To show the speed and low cost of the service, Kopp recalled an instance where a customer visited a Veja repair shop with an €800 luxury sneaker with a ripped sole. The cobbler repaired it in 10 minutes for €7.
The company launched the repair services after seeing the efforts of Patagonia to make its products more repairable. Kopp said the cost of introducing these in-store services is mostly limited to the salaries of the cobblers, as the brand already has the necessary shoe elements from its production line.
Italian luxury footwear brand Golden Goose, which reported its earnings on February 8, has seen success in offering repairs through its repairs-inclusive Forward stores, which first opened in 2022. Golden Goose Group saw net revenues of €587 million ($640 million) in 2023, growing 18% at a constant exchange rate versus 2022.
Along with repairs, the Golden Goose Forward stores in Milan, New York, Miami and Dubai offer co-creation and customization. In 2023, the brand repaired 24,000 sneakers and co-created 37,000 sneakers globally. A Golden Goose spokesperson called the stores a community builder and loyalty driver, especially with younger customers. They offer repairs for its sneakers, which cost $560 and upward, as well as other brands. Repairs cost $20-300, depending on the repair and customization.
“Consumers are looking to connect with more than just a luxury product. They want a business that reflects their values and to be part of a community,” said Golden Goose CEO Silvio Campara in a March 2024 earnings note. The company could not be reached for comment in time for publication.
“In the luxury industry, where you buy a bag for €8,000 ($8,721), offering this as a maintenance service every year can also extend customer loyalty and feed into luxury loyalty programs focused on sustainability,” said Anders Lange, LVMH in-house Committee member, who guides the strategic retail direction for Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy and Sephora, among others. Lange said the loyalty play could prove especially true for Gen Z and younger customers.
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