With the industry in flux and traditional retail under fire, fashion month has become more of an experimental playground than ever before. Once relegated to a seasonal schedule and formulaic runway layouts, designers and brands are now opting to show at different times, in different cities and in different ways than was once expected.
With designers like Philipp Plein and Rihanna’s Fenty by Puma putting on raucous, star-studded shows, others are left to find creative new ways to stand out. Some head to Los Angeles (as Tommy Hilfiger and Rebecca Minkoff have done in the past), while others, like Opening Ceremony, are opting for full-fledged performances. New York Fashion Week, in particular, has taken a hit from this transformative time, with local stalwarts including Altuzarra, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler opting to show in Paris this season instead.
With New York and London fashion weeks already under our belt, and Milan Fashion Week kicking off yesterday, we checked in with some of the industry’s top insiders to hear their thoughts on the state of New York Fashion Week, which aspects of fashion month still need fixing and their favorite shows so far.
Stacy Forgang, vice president at LaForce
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On the state of NYFW:
NYFW will always be an important moment — it serves a strong purpose. The form that it takes for designers and brands will continue to evolve, however. I think we’ll see designers taking more chances with how they show their collections — namely, experientially. They’ll have to consider how to present in the most compelling and interesting ways, while also realizing that schedules are tight and media wants to have an efficient experience. The Fenty x Puma show was a great example; it was fun, exciting and totally visual. There was tons of talk value, and having Rihanna on a motorcycle didn’t hurt.
On the designer exodus from New York:
I don’t think it’s a big deal. Some designers have decided to take an alternative approach to the traditional show schedule, while other designers feel that now is a good time to explore NYFW over other European shows. It’s evolving, which is what makes this season compelling.
The most impressive shows she’s seen so far:
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I loved Ulla Johnson and Cushnie et Ochs. They were both just beautiful collections that were presented impeccably. Ulla’s aesthetic perfectly fits into my new bicoastal lifestyle; it’s the perfect blend of East and West Coast vibes.
Bobby Schuessler, editorial director of Who What Wear
On the state of NYFW:
Yes, it’s true that some of the NYFW favorites have moved their shows across the pond, but with the wide array of innovative and talented designers still showing in New York (everyone from Calvin Klein to The Row), NYFW still feels as exciting as ever.
The most impressive shows he’s seen so far:
Calvin Klein reigns supreme for me. There’s always a lot of buildup and hype with a debut [as there was with Raf Simons’ first collection for the brand in February], but to create a just-as-compelling and thought-provoking follow-up is gold in my book. I particularly enjoyed Simons’ provocative and entrancing take on artistic motifs and horror films.
On what’s broken and still needs fixing at fashion week:
My biggest qualm with NYFW, specifically, would be the transportation element. While there are a few central hubs, most designers show all over the city, and it can be difficult navigating and getting anywhere on time. On the plus side, at least everything starts about 20 minutes late — excluding Marc Jacobs, of course.
Jennifer Davidson, editor in chief of The Fashion Spot
The most impressive shows she’s seen so far:
For me, an impressive show is not just about the clothes, but also the cast. I loved (and want!) all of the colorful dresses at Tome. But what really impressed me is that they were shown on women of all ethnicities, sizes and ages, proving that Tome designs clothes for every woman.
On what’s broken and still needs fixing at fashion week:
Runway diversity is very much still a work in progress. Though it was a landmark season for racial and size diversity, fashion still has a long way to go before it’s fully inclusive. With more women of color being represented than ever before, I’d love to see more designers embrace models of different ages and sizes.
