This is an episode of the Glossy Beauty Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the beauty and wellness industries. More from the series →
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For many consumers in the market for cosmetic procedures, busy lives often mean that anything with an at-home recovery period isn’t always possible. That concept has been a big selling point for Dr. Dennis Gross’s eponymous skin-care brand, which is still going strong with its cult Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel after over two decades.
Created to offer a chemical peel with no skin redness or need to stay home, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare’s peel is now “the No. 1 selling peel in the world,” said Dr. Gross on this week’s Glossy Beauty Podcast. With a growing number of products added to its lineup, a minority investment from private equity firm Main Post and plans to further expand internationally, the brand has seen “explosive” growth, he said. On the episode, he shares its founding story and plans for expansion, while weighing in on the rise of dermatologist brands and sharing why he’s not succumbing to TikTok trends.
A few highlights are below:
The founding story of the Alpha Beta peel, and the brand:
“I developed a ‘professional lunchtime peel’ back in the day, where you had incredible results after coming into the office, and no downtime. I’m a big believer in no downtime. I think it’s counterproductive and counterintuitive.
When I developed that product to use at home, people were just coming to my office asking for it who I’d never even met. I literally went home one day and said to my wife, Carrie, ‘I think we have a business here.’”
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That’s still the signature product of the brand. That was 20-plus years ago, and it is now the No. 1 selling peel in the world. … To this day, I’ve never offered Fraxel — that invasive laser — in my practice. I don’t do anything invasive.”
The dermatologist-founded skin-care brand trend:
“There are companies that create vats and vats of different moisturizers and serums. And then they sell to companies and doctors to put their own particular label on it and call that their own. … I was the first person — and am the only person, still, I think — to have a real duality to my orientation and formulas, in that I’m a practicing dermatologist. I’m seeing patients’ skin every single day in my office here in New York City, and I’ve learned about what’s needed. I see what’s going on with people.”
Debunking TikTok skin trends:
“We are on social media; we know that TikTok is important. Of course I have videos on TikTok. I’m talking about the myth of cycling. Cycling is so big right now.
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My idea of cycling is this: It is not good for the skin. It’s not how you get the best results to use a daily product and use it several times a week. Instead, products that are intended to be used every single day are tested and approved [in my videos].”
His thoughts on dancing dermatologists on TikTok:
“I’m not going to dance. By the way, I love dancing. I dance right here in the living room.”
